Buying advice

Buying a used mechanical watch

Buy the seller first, then the watch. After that, the movement's health, the service history and the case condition decide whether it's a bargain or a service bill waiting to happen.

1. The seller

• Prefer dealers and marketplaces with authenticity guarantees and a return window, or private sellers with a long, checkable history.
• Pay in a way that protects you. Avoid bank transfers to strangers.
• If a price is far below the going rate, assume something is wrong until it's proven otherwise.

2. Papers and history

• Box and papers add value and help confirm authenticity. Check that the serial and reference on the papers match the watch.
• Service receipts tell you when it was last opened and by whom. A recent service from a brand or known watchmaker is worth real money.
• No history? Budget for a full service on top of the price.

3. Does it run properly?

• Winding: the crown should turn smoothly, without grinding or slipping. On a hand-winder it should come to a firm stop. What's normal.
• Power reserve: ask how long it runs from full, or test it yourself. It should come close to the movement's rated reserve. How to test it.
• Timekeeping: ask for a timegrapher reading, or a few days of rate checks. What's normal for the movement.
• Functions: set the time and date, check the date clicks over cleanly, and run the chronograph through start, stop and reset.

Reading a timegrapher

Low amplitude usually means old oil or a tired mainspring, and a service. A wildly fast rate is often magnetism, which is a cheap fix.

4. Case, dial and bracelet

• Polishing: soft, rounded case edges and thin lugs mean it has been polished heavily. That lowers value, especially on vintage.
• Dial and hands: check for replacements ("service dials"), mismatched lume, and damage. Original matters on vintage.
• Crystal and bezel: chips, deep scratches and a bezel that doesn't click cleanly.
• Bracelet stretch: hold it by the clasp horizontally. A bracelet that sags a lot is worn.
• Moisture: any fog, rust or water marks under the crystal is a red flag.

5. Is it genuine and all original?

Fakes are good now, and some vintage watches are assembled from parts of several ("frankenwatches"). Compare with reference photos, check the serial against the reference and year, and look at the movement if you can. For expensive watches, pay a watchmaker or authentication service to open it before you buy, or buy from a dealer who guarantees it.

After you buy

Have the water resistance tested before swimming, clean it, and log it. Watch Winder learns its reserve as soon as you type its name, and keeps notes on its service history with the watch.

FAQ

Is it safe to buy a used mechanical watch?

Yes, from a reputable seller with a return window and an authenticity guarantee. Most risk comes from the seller, not the watch.

Should a used watch be serviced after buying?

If there's no record of a service in the last five years or so, or it runs short of its power reserve or well outside its accuracy spec, budget for a service.

What is a good timegrapher amplitude?

For most modern movements, around 250° to 310° when fully wound and dial up. Below about 200° usually means it needs a service.

Do box and papers matter?

They add resale value and help prove authenticity, especially for luxury brands. They matter less for inexpensive watches.

How can I tell if a used watch has been polished?

Look at the case edges and lugs. Sharp edges and crisp brushed-to-polished transitions suggest little polishing; soft, rounded edges and thin lugs suggest a lot.